Generate. Degenerate. Regenerate. Clothing can now enter a stage that has long been overlooked by both the sportswear and fashion industries: regeneration. A return to the origin, capable of eliminating any negative impact on an environment already deeply scarred—almost irreparably—by plastics and overproduction.

Generate. Degenerate. Regenerate. This process defines the bold, yet essential philosophy of Eric Liedtke: a visionary who decided to tackle paradigms that seemed impossible to break. He shaped the UNLESS brand, using only plant-based materials designed for natural decomposition. Fashion that leaves the planet intact. Clothes that, over time, don’t pollute but merge with the Earth.

Performing a so-called ‘regenerative action,’ Liedtke explains during a special event at Fuorisalone during Milan Design Week, means leaving a positive footprint behind, and designing a better future. By his side, Kevin Plank, founder of Under Armour, nods in agreement. Behind them, a backdrop that shows the fruits of the first synergistic collection between UA and UNLESS, while also marking Liedtke’s new role as Brand President of the company born on the football fields of the Maryland ‘Terrapins.’

“I want to congratulate Eric for picking up the baton in this relay race. And for turning this into a team sport, where we can encourage others to join us, because people need to understand how crucial all of this is…” Plank emphasizes, using his signature sports-driven language, a reflection of his background as a former high-level collegiate athlete turned entrepreneur.

Athleta, too, is amplifying this critical mission, listening directly to Liedtke’s pillars, the current state of his sustainable creative journey, and his vision for the future. As we talk, worms inhabit a few of the UNLESS pieces in an advanced state of decomposition. It may sound unusual, but it’s a vision of hope. Hope captured in the phrase “Protect Your Earth,” a slogan framing the Under Armour – UNLESS collection. The hope that emerges from a conversation with a Game Changer who is reshaping an entire industry.

The claim of Athleta Magazine is ‘Sport is Art and Culture’. When talking about contemporary sports culture, it’s inevitable to think about its complex relationship with sustainability. In your case, what role has sport played in approaching, studying and learning about this theme? And how has the sports culture influenced and inspired the origins of UNLESS?

“I was at Adidas for a long time—26 years, to be exact. I started next to the mailroom and eventually found myself in the boardroom as the brand President. Along that journey, the guys from Parley (a global environmental organization and network that raise awareness for the fragility of the oceans ed.) walked into my office and asked, “Would you like to save the oceans?” I said, “Of course, who wouldn’t? But I also have a day job.” They responded, “Are you aware of the impact that sportswear is having on the oceans?” 

So, I asked them to tell me more. We discussed the degradation of the underwater world and how it’s responsible for every second breath we take. And the microplastics, which are killing entire ecosystems. I couldn’t believe my ears. This was an industry I had loved for over 20 years… At that moment, something clicked. We instantly decided to partner with Parley and design better solutions. 

The first thing we did was acquire gillnets that had been recovered from a Sea Shepherd expedition. They had chased illegal fishing boats using gillnets in the Antarctic, where they weren’t allowed to fish. The Sea Shepherd crew followed them to the point where the boats were forced to scuttle. They boarded the vessels, retrieved the gillnets filled with decaying fish, and took them back to Hamburg. My team traveled to the city and used those gillnets to create the first-ever running shoe made from ocean plastic. It’s a fantastic story.

That achievement was a turning point for the world—to realize that you could create beautiful, functional products out of someone else’s trash or these nets of destruction. We made it happen in 2015.

By the time I left in 2019, that ocean plastic initiative was likely worth close to a billion euros. But I knew I couldn’t stop there. I had to address the bigger issue of plastic as a whole. I didn’t want to rely on recycled plastic anymore—what if we could create footwear made entirely from plants and minerals? Everyone in the industry knew that was the ultimate goal, but UNLESS was the one to make it happen. We started with lifestyle and sneakers, now we even have skateable products.”

And what about this new, meaningful chapter with Under Armour?

“The core of this special partnership with Under Armour is simple: if you set a clear goal, you can create anything you want. With Kevin Plank’s help and Under Armour’s support, we can make football boots, basketball uniforms—anything we want. We just need to solve a few challenges. Once we figure those out, we’ll be able to create any product fashion demands. And that includes performance gear.

The goal is clear: If we are going to disrupt the fashion industry, we need to create products that don’t make consumers choose between quality, taste, and values. We want to offer both exceptional products and sustainability.”

You’ve already touched your personal sports imagery, but can you tell us something more about it?

“From an early age, sport has always been a cornerstone of my life. I was a swimmer and a football player—those were my two passions. If I wasn’t doing one, I was doing the other. I kept my love for both alive, but as time passed, I eventually aged out of American football. However, my connection with the water stayed strong, and I evolved into water sports. Scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking—you name it. And ultimately, I found my true calling in surfing.

Surfing is my passion now. I may not be the best surfer, but I’m deeply passionate about it. It’s one of those sports that you don’t just pick up overnight. I started when I was living in Portugal, at 40 years old, and though I’m still learning, the joy I get from it continues to grow.

There’s something profound about being in the water, about sitting in the ocean and feeling the rhythm of the world beneath you. It inspires a deep need to protect it. I had already fallen in love with the idea of sustainability, but as my love for surfing grew, I realized that this passion for the ocean meant I had to act.

I was fortunate enough to retire when I left Adidas 6 years ago, but I didn’t want to just walk away. I wanted to build something meaningful—something I could be proud of for myself, my children, and my children’s children, seven generations from now. I want to help clean up the mess we’ve made.

Sport has always been important to me, as has the world around us. For me, they are in balance—both are priority one. And I’ve made it my mission to combine the two.”

When it comes to athletes, what kind of role do you think they can play in sharing these causes?

“I believe some athletes are naturally inclined to care, and there are certainly many who do. I haven’t had the chance to speak to all of the athletes Under Armour works with, but I did have the privilege of dining with Hakimi, the PSG player, earlier this week. What an incredible person—so intellectually curious. We didn’t get a chance to discuss the UNLESS proposition, but I have no doubt he would be the right kind of person to engage.

Right now, I’m looking for people who share the same background—whether in skateboarding, surfing, or snowboarding. There’s no snowboarder or skier on earth who doesn’t care about protecting the mountains. The same goes for surfers. Skaters are a bit more complex, given the nature of the sport, but these athletes seem to care more than others—they’re the true leaders of culture.

I think that’s where we start. These more ‘edge’ sports—the ones that push boundaries—are often the ones that truly make a difference and become the sharp point of change. So, we start from there, with purpose.”

‘Protect This Earth’ is a slogan that deeply aligns with the manifesto of UNLESS: ‘We Leave Nothing and No One Behind.’ Both encapsulate the essence of our Game Changers series, which explores the intersection of contemporary sports culture and sustainability. Reflecting on these words, what does it mean to you to be a Game Changer?

“At the core, I just want to make a difference. I believe that, in the end, when my time comes, and my ashes are scattered across the waters of the Pacific Northwest, I want people to remember one thing: he made a difference. I’ve adopted a new philosophy—one rooted in purpose. I don’t want to live a life of obligation. My life is built on zero wasted time. If what I’m doing doesn’t serve myself, my family, my friends, my community, or the world, then I’m not doing it. It’s liberating to live by that principle because I believe that whatever you invest your time and energy into comes back to you. It’s the compounding effect—what you put out into the world multiplies.

So, am I a Game Changer? Am I a creator? I’m just doing my part, trying to make the difference I wish to see in the world. Everyone here is trying to create the change they envision. The beauty of being mission-aligned is that we amplify each other. And that’s what’s most important: this is an invitation to take a story I’ve passionately worked on for the last seven years and share it with your audience. Let’s amplify it together—for my family, for your families, for the world. Together, we’ll make the difference we all seek. The world could certainly use a spark of hope right now.”

Your career has unfolded at the forefront of global design. Given the symbolic importance of Milan Design Week, could you share your thoughts on the role design must play in streetwear—and beyond—to bridge the gap between fashion and sustainability?

“We just spoke about sports. The key is finding the communities at the cutting edge and innovating alongside them—surfers, skaters, snowboarders, skiers—alongside designers and engineers. That’s where we create change.

Having worked with some of the greatest artists of our time—Kanye, Pharrell, Beyoncé, Yohji Yamamoto—there’s a consistency I see in them: they aren’t afraid to take big risks. They’re willing to make bold bets. Kevin Plank took a big risk on me, and I’m deeply honored and humbled by that. When you pair that spirit of risk-taking with people from these high-energy communities—people unafraid to push boundaries—you create something truly transformative.

I believe evolution isn’t a linear process; it’s marked by massive leaps forward. And right now, I’m looking for a leap—a leap that accelerates change in a meaningful way. To achieve that, you have to be where the designers are. And this is Milan. 

We may not have the biggest display, nor the most extravagant showcase, but I believe we have the most meaningful. We’re not here to lecture you; we’re here to invite you to join us in creating, designing, and driving real change.”